Thursday, December 3, 2009
A small pause
Sorry for the small hiatus, especially in the middle of my Japan tales, but we're now back in Manhattan and things are moving so quickly that I haven't had time to sit down and blog. Just to let you know, we've got an apartment and we're moving in tomorrow, Leo's started work, I've been working on a friend's movie and have just had my first interview today with yet another museum. So, I promise to pick up where I left off very, very soon.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
The Ishiteji temple in Matsuyama
One of the strangest temples we've visited was Ishiteji in Matsuyama. We didn't know exactly where it was or what we were in store for...just had a brief description in our guide book about weird statues and secret tunnels. We arrived at what looked like a pretty standard temple, though a bit run-down looking yet very colorful.
Thinking that perhaps this wasn't the right place, we started walking up the hill beside the temple complex, where we encountered these statues in what appeared to be a cemetery.
Further up the hill we came to a large golden dome with this statue outside. 
Leo, being curious, entered the door in the middle of the dome and called for me to come in as well. The place was dark and smelled of mildew, but I climbed up the steps inside the door and found myself surrounded by at least a hundred carved wooden statues staring at me
(with some random red cushioned theater seats scattered throughout the room).
Just across the street from the domed complex we found this tunnel opening,
so of course we went inside. Several stone buddahs were set in a line in the middle of the tunnel, which was quite dark at times, and there were various rooms we explored filled with statues and drawings. I learned that day that I'm not a big fan of dark tunnels, so Leo held my hand much of the way. We emerged behind the main temple we had first come to that day.
Very odd place, but if you're in Matsuyama you definitely must go there.
Thinking that perhaps this wasn't the right place, we started walking up the hill beside the temple complex, where we encountered these statues in what appeared to be a cemetery.
Further up the hill we came to a large golden dome with this statue outside. 
Leo, being curious, entered the door in the middle of the dome and called for me to come in as well. The place was dark and smelled of mildew, but I climbed up the steps inside the door and found myself surrounded by at least a hundred carved wooden statues staring at me
(with some random red cushioned theater seats scattered throughout the room).Just across the street from the domed complex we found this tunnel opening,
so of course we went inside. Several stone buddahs were set in a line in the middle of the tunnel, which was quite dark at times, and there were various rooms we explored filled with statues and drawings. I learned that day that I'm not a big fan of dark tunnels, so Leo held my hand much of the way. We emerged behind the main temple we had first come to that day.Very odd place, but if you're in Matsuyama you definitely must go there.
Matsuyama
The next stop was Matsuyama. We decided while in Hakodate that we should try to visit the 4 major islands in Japan, so Matsuyama seemed an obvious choice for a location in Shikoku since it is the largest city on the island. We also found out that there was the oldest onsen in Japan in Dogo, a suburb of Matsuyama, so Leo was very excited to experience that.
For dinner on the first night we found a noddle place known for their 5 colored soba noodles.
Although the noodles themselves tasted a bit like angel hair pasta, the sauce they were in and the fish served along with them were wonderful.
Both nights we were in Matsuyama, we went to ex-pat bars. We had expected them to be full of Brits or Australians
(this is Jim, and yes he is British)
but they were filled with people from all over the place - Germany, China, Thailand, Israel. It really is a very interesting experience and we met some really great people.
We did make it to the onsen in Dogo. The building is beautiful and I'm told (since I haven't seen the movie yet) that this is the onsen which is in the movie "Spirited Away." 
In the bath, the walls are covered with white and blue painted tiles and the water pours out from a stone fountain. Even I was able to relax in such a nice place.
For dinner on the first night we found a noddle place known for their 5 colored soba noodles.
Although the noodles themselves tasted a bit like angel hair pasta, the sauce they were in and the fish served along with them were wonderful.Both nights we were in Matsuyama, we went to ex-pat bars. We had expected them to be full of Brits or Australians
(this is Jim, and yes he is British)but they were filled with people from all over the place - Germany, China, Thailand, Israel. It really is a very interesting experience and we met some really great people.
We did make it to the onsen in Dogo. The building is beautiful and I'm told (since I haven't seen the movie yet) that this is the onsen which is in the movie "Spirited Away." 
In the bath, the walls are covered with white and blue painted tiles and the water pours out from a stone fountain. Even I was able to relax in such a nice place.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Hiroshima
The following day we took an early train to Hiroshima (thank goodness for these rail passes...I do believe we've gotten our monies worth). We dropped off our stuff at the hotel and headed over to the Peace Memorial Park, stopping off at the A-bomb dome on the way (one of the few remaining structures unrestored after the war). 
We walked from there though the Peace Park seeing the various memorials
and we also went to the Memorial Museum was a chilling and touching experience. Needing a bit of cheering up afterward, we found lunch in what is known as the Okonomiyaki Village (basically an office building with several okonomiyaki stalls on each floor). 
Lunch was huge and delicious.
We wandered around the large shopping arcades in the downtown area and also played some games in what are probably some of the nicest gaming arcades we've found in Japan.
Here, Leo is living out his dreams of being a DJ.
We ended the night in the rotating bar at the top of our hotel.
This is were I realized that we were indeed rotating and it wasn't just that the windows were moving.
We walked from there though the Peace Park seeing the various memorials
and we also went to the Memorial Museum was a chilling and touching experience. Needing a bit of cheering up afterward, we found lunch in what is known as the Okonomiyaki Village (basically an office building with several okonomiyaki stalls on each floor). 
Lunch was huge and delicious.We wandered around the large shopping arcades in the downtown area and also played some games in what are probably some of the nicest gaming arcades we've found in Japan.
Here, Leo is living out his dreams of being a DJ.We ended the night in the rotating bar at the top of our hotel.
This is were I realized that we were indeed rotating and it wasn't just that the windows were moving.
Monday, November 16, 2009
I promise, this is it for Kyoto
Twice on this trip I've gotten Leo to have dinner on the floor. This was the first time at a tempura restaurant in Kyoto along the canal. 
He's not all that flexible, so this is not easy for him, though he had a good time regardless.
On our final day in Kyoto, we visited even more shrines and temples on the east side of the city. These are the stepping stones in the garden of Heian Jingu.
Next, we followed what is known as the Philosopher's Path to the Silver Pavilion. This is taken along the path
(I don't think it gets more Japanese than this).
This is taken in the hills behind the Silver Pavilion, which isn't actually silver.
For dinner we found a restaurant which has been serving eel for over a century. Leo is trying to figure out if the contraption in front of him is to cook the eel, just keep it warm, or for him to eat off of.
He's not all that flexible, so this is not easy for him, though he had a good time regardless.On our final day in Kyoto, we visited even more shrines and temples on the east side of the city. These are the stepping stones in the garden of Heian Jingu.
Next, we followed what is known as the Philosopher's Path to the Silver Pavilion. This is taken along the path
(I don't think it gets more Japanese than this).This is taken in the hills behind the Silver Pavilion, which isn't actually silver.
For dinner we found a restaurant which has been serving eel for over a century. Leo is trying to figure out if the contraption in front of him is to cook the eel, just keep it warm, or for him to eat off of.
More Kyoto
We were in Kyoto during the perfect time to see the maple leaves changing colors (this is also why we had to pay a lot for a hotel room).
For dinner on our second night we ate in a mall. Though, the meal was not like one you'd typically find in such surroundings. Instead it was a set meal of about 5-6 courses of amazing udon, sushi, pudding, and sweets.
Leo was actually very happy with this meal, though he didn't want to show it.
Day three started in the Nishiki market
which was filled with pickled things and lots of free samples. We then moved on to the Shogun palace of Nijo-jo 
and finally the Golden Pavilion (we had to take a cab there since it was a much longer walk than we had anticipated).
For dinner on our second night we ate in a mall. Though, the meal was not like one you'd typically find in such surroundings. Instead it was a set meal of about 5-6 courses of amazing udon, sushi, pudding, and sweets.
Leo was actually very happy with this meal, though he didn't want to show it.Day three started in the Nishiki market
which was filled with pickled things and lots of free samples. We then moved on to the Shogun palace of Nijo-jo 
and finally the Golden Pavilion (we had to take a cab there since it was a much longer walk than we had anticipated).
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Kyoto
The next stop on our trip was Kyoto. On the train ride down we passed Mt. Fuji which really seemed to rise out of nowhere. For the time of year we were surprised that there was very little snow on top. 
Walking around Kyoto on the first evening, we were shocked to run into a former coworker of Leo's in one of the arcades. 
Kyoto is a very large and confusing city, and every map you get makes things look a lot closer than they are...that is if you ever find the places you're looking for. On our first night we tried desperately to find a bar, named A-bar (which didn't make it any easier). After about an hour and a half of searching, we settled on a different bar, where we ended up staying most of the night and befriending the staff and a family who was on vacation from Nagoya. 
The next day we walked miles around the east side of Kyoto, visiting various shrines and temples. This is the ceiling and alter of the Kenninji Temple.
This is the huge tori gate outside of the National Museum of Modern Art (which surprisingly had a show of works from the Borghese Gallery in Rome.
Walking around Kyoto on the first evening, we were shocked to run into a former coworker of Leo's in one of the arcades. 
Kyoto is a very large and confusing city, and every map you get makes things look a lot closer than they are...that is if you ever find the places you're looking for. On our first night we tried desperately to find a bar, named A-bar (which didn't make it any easier). After about an hour and a half of searching, we settled on a different bar, where we ended up staying most of the night and befriending the staff and a family who was on vacation from Nagoya. 
The next day we walked miles around the east side of Kyoto, visiting various shrines and temples. This is the ceiling and alter of the Kenninji Temple.
This is the huge tori gate outside of the National Museum of Modern Art (which surprisingly had a show of works from the Borghese Gallery in Rome.
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